Thursday, June 29, 2000

Istanbul 1

It really wasn't my first day in Istanbul, just the first of my last 3 days. I had allocated 6 days total to Istanbul, half at each end.

I had started getting up early again to accustom myself to the impending timezone jump. That morning I managed 0500. It was noisy outside when I opened the balcony door, mostly sea birds crying. There was even one that sounded like a dog waffing. The sun was out though there were clouds. I went to the hotel terrace and sat for a half hour watching the jetty. I saw lone commuters hurrying to catch the 0600 ferry, and saw one ferry leave for Heybeliada, the second largest island of the group. Then I went for breakfast.

This clock tower is just outside the hotel and one of the first points of reference after disembarking from the ferry.

I left my bag with reception and walked to the monastery of Ayios Nikolaos. It's a reminder that more Greeks lived here in the past. It showed no sign of current use. There were flies everywhere due to the horse shit. They even followed me down the hill.

Büyükada has many stately mansions due to rich people setting up holiday homes here.

I had a walk through the island's markets. Many shops had advertisements in Hebrew, perhaps due to Israeli visitors, and perhaps history as Jews have been in Turkey for centuries. There is even a synagogue on the island.

This is the island's central "taxi" rank.

The trip back to Sirkeci was breezy. Istanbul was crowded and noisy as always. I checked in at the youth hostel, then went for a walk in the markets. I like looking at the colour of produce.

A stall selling flours and pulses. A tourist like me taking pictures always got curious looks from the subjects, especially as my eyelid was still swollen.

This is the Orient Hostel, another hostel in the same neighbourhood of Sultanahmet, where I had decided I would catch a shuttle to the airport on departure day.

In the evening after dinner, I caught a ferry to Üsküdar, on the Asian shore. It was a cool place, in both senses. The lights of the European shore were magical to watch. On regaining the European shore, I found a cafe serving Turkish coffee but it was disappointing. If you like it, then you like coffee with the flavour boiled out of it and sludge at the bottom of the cup.

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